Category Archives: Film

Valia (1899-1993)

Her philosophy of life was simple ‘you know… I am really a fatalist at heart – I live for today. Tomorrow can look after itself.’ Picturegoer July 1923

Christened the British Barbara Le Marr, Valia was somewhat type-cast as ‘the charming movie vamp’ which was in stark contrast to her real personality. Valia starred in numerous melodramas in just a three-year period from 1921, but made a big splash and was highly regarded, before marrying an American millionaire and deserting the screen forever in 1924. 

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The Fox Picture Fig Leaves, 1926

This splendid advertising card was created to advertise the 1926 Fox picture Fig Leaves that was screened at the Capitol Theatre in the Haymarket, London in October 1926, along with a stage fashion show provided by the department store Stagg and Russell in Leicester Square.

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Merci et Cie the Movie Modiste

Merci et Cie the Movie Modiste

Post World War 1 there was renewed optimism for the British Film industry and various moves were made to improve the quality of productions with effective and original costume design recognised as being of crucial importance. Between 1919-1922 this was evident by the formation of two dress-designing departments at the newly formed Islington studio for Famous Players Lasky, headed by Marcelle de St Martin and the Alliance Studios, headed by Gladys Jackson. But there were various other independent designers rising to the occasion as well. One such person was the fashion designer and costumier Mde de Petier of Merci et Cie (sometimes spelt Mercie) based at 90 Charing Cross Road, whose business was described as ‘milliners.’

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Dolly Tree and The Lodger (1926)

On watching the film closely (once again) I saw something that had not registered before – a rather tantalising and interesting visual connection – that the famous dress-designer Dolly Tree made an appearance in Alfred Hitchcock’s The Lodger (1926)

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Marcelle de Saint Martin and British silent film

Marcelle de Saint Martin and British silent film

French born Marcelle De Saint Martin, became the first true head of a cohesive costume or wardrobe department for a British film studio beginning work at the Islington film Studio in the early 1920s.

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The School For Scandal (1923)

The School For Scandal (1923)

A surprising British feature film released in 1923 was Bertram Phillips’ The School For Scandal starring Queenie Thomas based on a well-known British stage play by Richard Sheridan.

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The Million Dollar Dollies (1918)

The Million Dollar Dollies (1918)

Produced by Emerald Pictures and distributed by Metro, The Million Dollar Dollies, was the first and only film that the Dolly Sisters appeared in together. It was released in early 1918 in the USA but did not surface in the UK until 1920.

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Paddy the Next Best Thing (1923)

Paddy the Next Best Thing (1923)

Herbert’s Wilcox’s second film with Mae Marsh, following The Flames of Passion, was Paddy the Next Best Thing, a romantic drama about a young tomboy and her growing love for a rich landowner set in Ireland and London, once again directed by Graham Cutts.

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The Flames of Passion (1922)

Flames of Passion (1922)

One of the earliest ground breaking British silent films from Herbert Wilcox and Graham Cutts was The Flames of Passion starring the American actress Mae Marsh and a solid British cast.

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The White Shadow (1924)

The White Shadow (1924)

Part of a two-picture deal starring the American actress Betty Compson, The White Shadow (1924) was the second picture from British director Graham Cutts, following in the footsteps of the highly successful Woman to Woman (1923).

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